HISTORY & INTERESTING FACTS
Whether made with ternera (beef) or cerdo (pork), carrilladas deserve their place among Spain’s most comforting and deeply flavoured dishes.
Carrilladas are cheeks: a hardworking cut containing connective tissue that becomes exceptionally tender when cooked slowly. Although relatively lean, they remain wonderfully moist during braising, absorbing the flavours of wine, vegetables, herbs and stock until the meat can be separated with little more than a fork.
The dish is found throughout Spain, with particularly hearty versions associated with the major pig-raising regions of western Andalusia, Extremadura and Castilla y León. For an especially luxurious version, look for carrilladas ibéricas, made from the cheeks of Ibérico pigs.
The sauce varies from place to place. Some cooks use red wine, others sherry, brandy or a combination of all three. What remains constant is patience: the cheeks are browned, then cooked slowly until the sauce is concentrated and the meat is meltingly tender.
One of the best carrilladas I have eaten was at Bodeguita Romero in Seville. It was the sort of dish that felt like a warm embrace on a plate.
Another memorable version appeared at Barajas 20 Tapas, also in Seville, where the slow-cooked cheek meat was enclosed in ravioli-like parcels, served over creamy mashed potato and generously covered with the braising sauce. It was rich, comforting and completely unforgettable.
This recipe brings those flavours home. It is ideal for a cold winter day, but elegant enough to serve when you want something generous and deeply satisfying for friends.
¡Bon Profit!
Raquel x
INGREDIENTS
- 1kg beef cheeks, trimmed and cut into large pieces
- 750ml good-quality red wine
- 2 carrots, roughly chopped
- 1 brown onion, roughly chopped
- 1 celery stalk, roughly chopped
- 1 dried or fresh bay leaf
- Several sprigs of thyme
- 3 garlic cloves, peeled and lightly crushed
- 2 teaspoons black peppercorns
- Approximately 1 cup beef stock, plus more if required
- Olive oil, for browning
- Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
METHOD
The night before
- Place the beef cheeks, carrots, onion, celery, bay leaf, thyme, garlic and peppercorns in a large non-reactive dish.
- Pour over the red wine and mix well so the meat and vegetables are evenly coated.
- Cover and refrigerate overnight.
The next day
- Remove the dish from the refrigerator and drain the meat and vegetables, reserving all the wine. Do not discard the marinade.
- Pat the beef cheeks dry with paper towel. This will help them brown rather than steam.
- Season the meat and vegetables with salt and freshly ground black pepper.
- Place a large casserole dish near the stove, ready to receive the browned ingredients.
- Heat a generous layer of olive oil in a heavy-based frying pan over medium-high heat.
- Brown the beef cheeks in batches, allowing them to colour well on all sides. Avoid overcrowding the pan.
- Transfer each browned batch to the casserole dish.
- Add the drained vegetables to the frying pan and cook for approximately 10–15 minutes, stirring occasionally, until softened and lightly coloured.
- Transfer the vegetables to the casserole dish with the beef.
- Pour in the reserved wine and enough beef stock to cover the meat and vegetables.
- Place the lid on the casserole dish and bring the liquid just to the boil.
- Immediately reduce the heat to a very gentle simmer.
- Cook, covered, for 2½–3 hours, checking occasionally, until the beef is extremely tender and separates easily when pressed with a fork.
- Taste the sauce and adjust the seasoning before serving.
TIPS, TRICKS & TROUBLESHOOTING
Keep the heat low
Every stove behaves differently. Check the dish after approximately one hour. If the liquid has reduced below halfway, move the casserole to a smaller burner or reduce the heat further.
The dish needs at least 2½ hours for the connective tissue to soften properly and for the flavours to deepen. If the liquid disappears too quickly, the meat may become dry before it becomes tender.
Use a simmer plate
A simmer plate is useful for dispersing the heat and maintaining a slow, steady simmer, particularly on a gas cooktop.
Keep the meat covered
The meat and vegetables should remain mostly submerged during cooking. If necessary, add a little more warm beef stock.
Do not rush the browning
Browning the cheeks properly develops the rich, savoury foundation of the sauce. Cook them in batches and allow each piece enough contact with the hot pan.
Make it ahead
Carrilladas are often even better the following day. Allow the finished dish to cool, refrigerate it overnight and gently reheat before serving. Any solidified fat can be removed from the surface while cold.
For a smoother sauce
Once the meat is tender, remove it carefully from the casserole. Strain the sauce or blend the vegetables into it, then simmer uncovered until it reaches the consistency you prefer. Return the meat to the sauce to warm through.
WINE MATCHING & SERVING SUGGESTIONS
Serve the carrilladas with cauliflower purée, mashed potato, buttery polenta or crusty bread to catch the red wine sauce.
A structured Syrah or Shiraz is a natural match. The wine’s dark fruit, spice and savoury character complement the richness of the slow-cooked beef, while its acidity refreshes the palate.
For a more casual tapas-style presentation, serve the beef cheeks with thick, slow-cooked potato crisps such as Kettle-style chips.
The meat is soft enough to pull apart with a fork and spoon onto each crisp with a little sauce. Use sturdy, thick-cut chips so they remain crisp long enough to carry the meat without becoming immediately soggy.
