Croquetas de Jamón / Ham Croquettes

HISTORY & INTERESTING FACTS

The word croquette comes from the French verb croquer, meaning “to crunch”—an apt description of the crisp coating that gives way to a soft, creamy centre.

Croquettes are often associated with the celebrated French chef Marie-Antoine Carême, who cooked for European royalty and aristocracy during the early nineteenth century. Carême served elaborate preparations known as croquettes à la royale, although crumbed and fried foods existed in various forms before his time.

The idea was practical as well as luxurious. A thick sauce could transform modest quantities of leftover meat, fish, cheese or vegetables into an entirely new dish. Once chilled, the mixture was shaped, crumbed and fried, allowing valuable ingredients to be stretched rather than wasted.

Spain embraced the croquette and made it unmistakably its own. Spanish croquetas are generally prepared with a thick béchamel rather than mashed potato. The chilled filling is shaped, coated in breadcrumbs and fried until crisp outside and almost molten within.

You will find them in bars, restaurants and family kitchens throughout Spain, filled with everything from salt cod and roast chicken to mushrooms, cheese and seafood. However, croquetas de jamón, made with finely chopped Spanish cured ham, remain among the most treasured.

In this recipe, I use what I call a “backward” béchamel method. Rather than gradually whisking milk into the flour and butter in the saucepan, the cooked flour mixture, milk, onion and jamón are blended before being returned to the heat. This produces a smooth filling without flour lumps and removes much of the anxiety traditionally associated with making béchamel.

The result is a tray of crisp, golden pockets with creamy, deeply savoury centres. They require a little preparation, but much of the work can be completed ahead—and they disappear remarkably quickly once placed on the table.

¡Bon Profit!
Raquel x

INGREDIENTS

For the filling

• 75g unsalted butter
• 1 medium brown onion, finely chopped
• Pinch of sea salt
• 250g jamón, very finely chopped
• 3 cups full-cream milk
• ¾ cup plain flour
• 1 teaspoon sea salt, or to taste
• ½ teaspoon ground nutmeg, optional

Gluten-free plain flour may be substituted if required.

For coating

• 3–4 large eggs, lightly whisked
• Approximately 200g fine breadcrumbs
• Approximately 200g panko breadcrumbs

Use gluten-free breadcrumbs or rice crumbs if required.

For frying

• Approximately 600–700ml olive, sunflower, canola or vegetable oil

For a vegan variation

• Plant-based butter
• 125g coconut bacon
• ½ cup fresh or frozen peas
• Unsweetened soy milk
• Gluten-free or plain flour
• Approximately 3 tablespoons vegan mayonnaise, thinned with a little water if necessary
• Vegan fine and panko-style breadcrumbs

METHOD

Part 1: Prepare the filling

1. Heat a small frying pan over medium heat.
2. Add the finely chopped jamón and cook for approximately 1 minute, just long enough to release some of its fat. Transfer to a bowl and set aside.
3. Add the onion and a pinch of salt to the pan. Cook gently until soft and translucent without allowing it to brown.
4. Melt the butter in a medium saucepan over medium heat.
5. Add the flour and cook for 5–7 minutes, stirring regularly. The mixture should smell lightly toasted but should not brown deeply.
6. Transfer the cooked butter and flour mixture to a high-powered blender.
7. Add the cooked onion, jamón, milk, salt and nutmeg.
8. Blend on medium-high speed for approximately 30 seconds, or until completely smooth. Check for flour lumps and blend for another 15 seconds if necessary.
9. Pour the mixture back into the saucepan and place it over medium heat.
10. Cook for 7–10 minutes, stirring continuously with a wooden spoon or firm silicone spatula.
11. Pay particular attention to the base and corners of the saucepan, as the mixture will thicken quickly and can catch.
12. The filling is ready when it is very thick and begins to pull away from the base of the saucepan as you draw the spoon through it.
13. Transfer the mixture to a shallow baking dish measuring approximately 30 × 20cm.
14. Smooth the surface and allow it to cool briefly.
15. Cover the surface directly with baking paper or reusable food wrap to prevent a skin from forming.
16. Refrigerate for at least 2 hours, although overnight chilling will make the filling easier to shape.

For food safety and best quality, use the refrigerated mixture within 2–3 days rather than leaving it for five days. Keep it at 5°C or colder.

Part 2: Shape and coat the croquettes

1. Remove the chilled filling from the refrigerator.
2. To make approximately 30 croquettes, cut the mixture into 10 strips lengthways and then across into three rows, creating 30 roughly equal portions.
3. Set out three shallow bowls to form a coating station:
   • Fine breadcrumbs in the first bowl
   • Lightly whisked eggs in the second
   • Panko breadcrumbs in the third
4. With clean hands, gently shape each piece into a short oblong or oval croquette.
5. Roll one croquette in the fine breadcrumbs, coating it completely.
6. Shake away any excess crumbs, then dip it into the whisked egg.
7. Allow the excess egg to drain before rolling the croquette in the panko breadcrumbs.
8. Press the crumbs on gently so the coating is complete and there are no exposed areas.
9. Place the finished croquette on a lined tray.
10. Repeat until all the croquettes are shaped and coated.
11. Refrigerate for at least 30 minutes before frying. This firms the coating and reduces the likelihood of splitting.

Part 3: Fry the croquettes

1. Pour enough oil into a medium, heavy-based saucepan or deep frying pan to cover the croquettes completely, or at least three-quarters of the way.
2. Heat the oil to approximately 170–175°C. It should be hot but not smoking.
3. Without a thermometer, test the oil with a small piece of breadcrumb. It should sizzle immediately and steadily without darkening too quickly.
4. Fry no more than five or six croquettes at a time. Crowding the pan will lower the oil temperature and produce greasy croquettes.
5. Fry for approximately 3–5 minutes, turning if necessary, until evenly golden brown.
6. Remove with a slotted spoon and transfer to a plate lined with paper towel.
7. Allow the oil to return to temperature before adding the next batch.
8. Continue until all the croquettes are cooked.
9. Serve immediately while the coating is crisp and the centre is hot and creamy.

To reheat

1. Preheat the oven to 160°C fan-forced or 180°C conventional.
2. Arrange the cooked croquettes on a lined baking tray.
3. Reheat for approximately 10–15 minutes, or until hot through the centre.
4. Check them regularly so the coating does not become too dark.

TIPS, CHEATS & TROUBLESHOOTING

My filling is too soft to cut or shape

The mixture may not have cooked for long enough, or the onion may have introduced additional moisture.

Place the dish in the freezer until the filling becomes firm but is not completely frozen. Work quickly while shaping and coating it, then refrigerate or freeze the coated croquettes for another 30 minutes before frying.

For your next batch, cook the filling until it is noticeably thick and pulls cleanly from the base of the saucepan.

My croquettes are splitting while frying

Several things can cause this:

• The oil is too hot.
• The filling is too warm or soft.
• The coating contains gaps.
• Too many croquettes have been placed in the pan.
• The croquettes have been left in the oil for too long.

Chill the shaped croquettes thoroughly, check that every surface is completely crumbed and maintain the oil at approximately 170–175°C.

My croquettes are cold in the middle

The croquettes may be too large, too cold or fried too quickly in oil that is overly hot.

Lower the oil temperature slightly so the coating browns more gradually. Alternatively, fry the croquettes until pale golden, drain them briefly, then finish them in a 180°C oven for approximately 10 minutes.

The centre should be steaming hot before serving.

I am having trouble forming the oblong shape

There is no need to produce perfectly uniform football shapes.

Cut the portions in half and roll them into smaller balls. Smaller croquettes are often easier to coat and fry, and they are ideal for serving at parties.

Can I freeze the croquettes?

Yes. Arrange the crumbed, uncooked croquettes in a single layer on a lined tray and freeze until firm. Transfer them to a freezer-safe container, separating layers with baking paper, and store for up to two months.

For the most even cooking, thaw them overnight in the refrigerator before frying. Do not leave them on the bench to defrost. Potentially hazardous food should be kept outside the 5–60°C temperature danger zone as much as possible.

How do I keep the coating crisp?

Drain the cooked croquettes briefly on paper towel, then transfer them to a wire rack. Leaving them on absorbent paper for too long can trap steam beneath the coating and soften it.

Taste before adding salt

Jamón, chorizo, cheese, salt cod and other possible fillings can contribute considerable salt. Add only a small amount initially, then taste the cooked filling before adjusting the seasoning.

RECIPE VARIATIONS

Leek croquettes

Replace the brown onion with half a leek, finely sliced and cooked gently until very soft.

Mushroom croquettes

Finely dice the mushrooms and fry them with the onion until their liquid has evaporated. Use them instead of the jamón.

Chorizo croquettes

Replace the jamón with finely diced chorizo. Fry it briefly first to render some of the fat.

Chicken, pork or beef croquettes

Use leftover cooked meat, finely shredded or diced. Add it to the blender in place of the jamón.

Salt-cod croquettes

Use cooked, cooled and carefully deboned salt cod. Flake it before adding it to the filling and omit the jamón. Taste before adding any salt.

Tuna croquettes

Drain a tin of tuna thoroughly and add it in place of the jamón. A little parsley or lemon zest also works well.

Cheese croquettes

Replace the jamón with approximately 75g grated Manchego or Parmesan—or retain some jamón and use both.

Vegan croquettes

Replace the butter with a plant-based alternative and the full-cream milk with unsweetened soy milk.

Use coconut bacon and peas in place of the jamón. For coating, thin vegan mayonnaise with a little water until it has the consistency of beaten egg, then use it between the fine breadcrumbs and panko crumbs.

WINE MATCHING & SERVING SUGGESTIONS

A cold glass of Fino or Manzanilla is a classic match for croquetas de jamón. Their saline freshness cuts through the fried coating and creamy béchamel while complementing the savoury cured ham.

Tempranillo is an excellent red-wine option. Its bright red fruit, savoury character and gentle tannin work with the jamón without making the croquettes feel heavy. Serve it lightly chilled.

Albariño also works beautifully, particularly when serving croquettes filled with salt cod, tuna, leek or mushrooms. Its acidity and saline freshness cleanse the palate after each creamy mouthful.

Pinot Gris is a softer, more textural alternative for chicken, cheese or mushroom croquettes, while Whole Bunch Rosé is a versatile choice when serving several different varieties together.

Serve the croquettes as soon as possible after frying, either alone or as part of a tapas spread with olives, roasted peppers, tortilla and a crisp green salad.