Canelons De Albergines / Eggplant Cannelloni

HISTORY & INTERESTING FACTS

The eggplant has travelled a remarkable distance to become such an important part of Spanish cooking.

Also known as aubergine or berenjena, it was cultivated in Asia long before it became established around the Mediterranean. The plant was later brought into the Iberian Peninsula during the centuries of Islamic rule, when the agriculture and cooking of al-Andalus transformed Spain’s culinary landscape.

The influence of al-Andalus reached far beyond any single ingredient. Its sophisticated farming, irrigation, medicine and food culture helped establish many of the flavours now considered central to Mediterranean cooking, including vegetables, nuts, spices and the liberal use of olive oil.

Eggplant became so closely associated with Andalusian cuisine that it appeared in poetry, songs and culinary writing. Medieval cooks prepared it in numerous ways: fried, baked, stuffed, mashed, pickled and combined with honey, nuts, vinegar and warming spices.

That history is reflected in this recipe.

The eggplant is sliced lengthways and wrapped around a soft filling of potato, thyme, cinnamon and almonds. Once baked, the canelons are finished with honey and a little more cinnamon, creating a dish that moves between savoury and sweet in the way many recipes shaped by Moorish Spain still do.

Eggplants belong to the nightshade family, alongside tomatoes, potatoes and capsicums. These edible nightshades contain minute traces of naturally occurring nicotine, although the quantities are nutritionally insignificant and bear little comparison with tobacco.

The bitterness sometimes associated with eggplant comes mainly from naturally occurring phenolic compounds rather than from nicotine. Modern varieties are generally much less bitter than older ones, although mature fruit with numerous developed seeds may taste stronger.

Salting is therefore no longer essential for every eggplant, but it remains useful here. It seasons the slices, draws out some moisture and helps them brown rather than steam during frying.

This is a wonderfully Moorish-inspired dish: softly spiced, nutty, gently sweet and rich without being heavy. It works beautifully as part of a tapas table, but it is also substantial enough to serve with a salad for lunch.

¡Bon Profit!
Raquel x

INGREDIENTS

For the eggplant canelons

• 2 large eggplants, cut lengthways into slices approximately 1cm thick
• 2 tablespoons sea salt flakes
• 750g Désirée potatoes, peeled and halved
• 60g butter
• 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, plus more for frying
• 1½ tablespoons pure cream
• ¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon
• Leaves from 2 thyme sprigs, finely chopped
• 80g flaked almonds, roughly chopped
• Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Nuttelex may be substituted for the butter and silken tofu for the cream when making a vegan version.

To finish

• 3 tablespoons honey
• A pinch of ground cinnamon
• 1 tablespoon mayonnaise, optional
• Pomegranate seeds, optional
• A small handful of rocket, optional

Use maple syrup in place of honey for a vegan version.

METHOD

Part 1: Prepare the eggplant

1. Arrange the eggplant slices in a colander set over the sink.
2. Sprinkle the slices evenly with the sea salt flakes, making sure each piece receives a little salt.
3. Leave them to stand for approximately 20–30 minutes while you prepare the potato filling.
4. Rinse away the excess salt and pat the eggplant thoroughly dry with paper towel.

Part 2: Make the filling

1. Place the potatoes in a large saucepan of generously salted water.
2. Bring to the boil, then cook for approximately 15–20 minutes, or until tender when pierced but not falling apart.
3. Drain the potatoes thoroughly and transfer them to a large bowl.
4. Mash while still warm.
5. Add 30g of the butter, 1 tablespoon of extra virgin olive oil, the cream, cinnamon, thyme and almonds.
6. Mix until evenly combined, then season with salt and freshly ground black pepper.
7. Leave the filling to cool for approximately 15 minutes.
8. Refrigerate for a further 20 minutes so it becomes firm enough to shape.

Part 3: Cook the eggplant

1. Preheat the oven to 180°C fan-forced.
2. Heat approximately 2 teaspoons of extra virgin olive oil in a large, heavy-based frying pan over medium-high heat.
3. Working in batches, fry the eggplant slices for 2–3 minutes on each side, adding a little more oil as needed.
4. Cook until the slices are golden, tender and flexible enough to roll without breaking.
5. Transfer them to a plate lined with paper towel to absorb any excess oil.
6. Leave until cool enough to handle.

Part 4: Assemble and bake

1. Line a large baking tray with baking paper.
2. Lay an eggplant slice flat on a chopping board.
3. Place a heaped tablespoon of the chilled potato filling across the wider end of the slice.
4. Shape the filling into a short, thick line, leaving a small border at each side.
5. Roll the eggplant around the filling to form a canelon.
6. Place it seam-side down on the prepared tray.
7. Repeat with the remaining eggplant and filling.
8. Melt the remaining 30g butter and brush it over the tops of the canelons.
9. Bake for 12–15 minutes, or until the filling is hot and the eggplant is lightly golden.
10. Transfer the canelons to a serving plate.
11. Drizzle lightly with honey and dust with a small pinch of cinnamon.
12. Finish, if desired, with tiny spoonfuls of mayonnaise, a scattering of pomegranate seeds or a few rocket leaves.

TIPS, CHEATS & TROUBLESHOOTING

Choose large, evenly shaped eggplants

Long, broad eggplants produce the most useful slices for rolling. Avoid very narrow fruit, as the slices may be too small to hold the filling securely.

Do eggplants need to be salted?

Many modern eggplants are not particularly bitter, so salting is not always necessary. In this recipe, however, it removes some surface moisture, seasons the flesh and helps the slices brown during frying.

Do not slice the eggplant too thinly

Slices thinner than approximately 1cm can tear during frying or rolling. If they are much thicker, they may be difficult to bend around the filling.

Keep the filling firm

Cooling and briefly refrigerating the potato mixture makes it much easier to shape. If it remains very soft, add a few more chopped almonds or refrigerate it for longer.

Do not overfill the canelons

A generous tablespoon is usually enough. Too much filling will cause the eggplant to split or unroll during baking.

Make the dish ahead

The assembled canelons can be covered and refrigerated before basting and baking.

When cooking them directly from the refrigerator, allow an additional 5–10 minutes in the oven to ensure the filling is hot throughout.

A note on bitterness and seeds

Choose fruit that feels firm and heavy for its size, with glossy, unwrinkled skin and a fresh green stem.

Very mature eggplants may contain more developed seeds and stronger flavours. If the flesh is heavily seeded or noticeably bitter, remove some of the central seed area before cooking.

WINE MATCHING & SERVING SUGGESTIONS

Tempranillo is my first choice for this dish.

Its red fruit, gentle tannin and savoury spice complement the cinnamon, thyme and almonds, while its acidity balances the sweetness of the honey. Serving it slightly chilled keeps the pairing fresh and prevents the wine from overwhelming the eggplant.

Pinot Gris is a beautiful white alternative. Its orchard fruit, gentle spice and rounded texture work particularly well with the creamy potato filling and toasted almonds.

A dry whole-bunch rosé also suits the dish, especially when the canelons are finished with pomegranate seeds. Its bright fruit offers contrast to the earthy eggplant while remaining light enough for a tapas-style meal.

Serve the canelons warm rather than piping hot, either as part of a shared Spanish table or with a crisp green salad for lunch.