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Discovering the Allure of Alvarinho / A Journey Through Portugal's Vinho Verde

A journey through Vinho Verde, Monção and Melgaço, and the craft of Anselmo Mendes, exploring why albariño/alvarinho continues to captivate.

Discovering the Allure of Alvarinho / A Journey Through Portugal's Vinho Verde

Albariño or Alvarinho? Two Names, One Grape, Infinite Possibilities

Despite the different names used in each country, Albariño in Spain and Alvarinho in Portugal are the same grape variety. The distinction lies primarily in language and regional winemaking traditions.

Both names refer to a white grape native to the Iberian Peninsula, known for bright acidity, citrus and stone fruit flavours, and occasional saline notes. The grape thrives in two key regions: Rías Baixas in Galicia, Spain, and Vinho Verde in Portugal, specifically the Monção and Melgaço sub-region.

Despite the shared variety, subtle differences arise from terroir and winemaking technique. Spanish albariño is often characterised by pronounced fruitiness, while Portuguese alvarinho from Vinho Verde can show more minerality, influenced by the region’s granite soils.

Discovering Vinho Verde and Anselmo Mendes

Vinho Verde, tucked away in the far north of Portugal, is a region that has long captured the hearts of wine lovers, not only for its beauty but for the quality of its wines. Within it, Monção and Melgaço stands out for producing some of the best alvarinho wines in the world.

This small but distinguished area sits along the southern banks of the Minho River, just a few kilometres from the Galician border in Spain. It is here that winemaker Anselmo Mendes, often referred to as “Mr. Alvarinho”, has made his mark.

On a recent trip to the Vinho Verde region, we had the opportunity to explore Monção and Melgaço and visit Anselmo Mendes’s Quinta da Torre estate. Mendes has spent more than 30 years studying alvarinho, balancing tradition and innovation while producing a range of wines that reflect the soil types of his vineyards.

The Microclimate of Monção and Melgaço

The secret to the exceptional quality of alvarinho wines from Monção and Melgaço lies in the microclimate. The region enjoys more sunshine than other parts of Vinho Verde, with mountains protecting the vineyards from Atlantic winds and excess rain.

In the granite soils of the Minho Valley, alvarinho flourishes. The wines here are known for elegance and vibrancy, with flavours ranging from citrus fruits to more exotic notes such as lychee and passionfruit. In some cases, oak ageing adds further depth and complexity.

Anselmo Mendes: A Winemaker’s Quest for Perfection

What makes Anselmo Mendes stand out is his dedication to innovation without losing sight of tradition. Born in Monção to a farming family, Mendes trained as an agronomist, focusing on the science of soil management. This knowledge laid the foundation for a winemaking philosophy centred on terroir and the way land influences wine.

Since producing his first wine in 1998, Mendes has pushed the boundaries of what the variety can achieve, experimenting with techniques such as oak fermentation and ageing. The result is a collection of wines that range from fresh and vibrant to rich and complex.

Why we Love this Grape Variety

There is a reason albariño and alvarinho are so revered. Their versatility, elegance and food-friendly nature make this one of the world’s great white grape varieties. Whether young and zesty or more mature and oak-aged, there is an expression for every palate.

On a personal note, we are excited to introduce Weathercraft’s barrel-fermented Albariño, a wine that draws inspiration from the wines of Portugal and Spain and the meticulous craftsmanship of winemakers such as Anselmo Mendes. Albariño, whether from Portugal or Spain, is a grape that continues to captivate, and it is a privilege to share that journey through Weathercraft.

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Wines referenced in this article - available from the cellar door and online.

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